Also, don’t miss the classic Argentine treat: the alfajor. It’s a blob of dulce de leche (like caramel but so much stickier, grainier, thicker and sweeter) sandwiched between two soft, crumbly butter cookies. The packaged ones at any kiosko will do as long as you stick with El Calchafaz and Terrabusi. But when you’re in need of a true delicacy, you have no choice but to find the nearest Havanna.
Argentine helado is unparalleled, but that unfortunately doesn’t include trendy chains like Freddo and Persicco, which you’ll find dotted all over the city. Instead, seek out any of the places that look like they might collapse, which offer much tastier options. more >Av. Callao 777 between Viamonte and Av. Córdoba, 54-11-4814-3438.
Official site (in Spanish) >
Google Maps >
While there is quite a debate over which packaged alfajores are the best, the number one spot is almost always awarded to Havanna. Most locals call them the best alfajores in the world, and everyone prefers… more >Retails everywhere. Click here for a list of locations on Havanna’s web site (in English), but know you can also find the basic chocolate-covered dulce de leche alfajores at most kioskos around the city. Official site (Spanish, more complete) > Official site (English, a work in progress) >
More on general South American alfajores from Wikipedia >
Here you’ll find every imaginable dried fruit, nut or wrapped candy treat (including the packaged alfajores). Don’t miss the dried figs of every kind, from Black Mission to Turkish, and the assorted raisins. more >Viamonte 2302 at Pasteur, 54-11-4951-4191. Cash only. Open 8:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays, closed Sundays. more >
A wine cellar with preserved fruits and olives galore
This one’s really buried under the highway—I don’t know how I found it. But once you get there, it’s worth it. A bodega is a wine cellar, and while they don’t make wine here anymore, they have walls of it and sell it at a good price. more >Paraguay 4940 at Juan B. Justo, under the railroad tracks of Ferrocarril San Martín, 54-11-4116-9497. Google Maps >