A former wine cellar with preserved fruits and olives galore
This one’s really buried under the highway—I don’t know how I found it. But once you get there, it’s worth it.
A bodega is a wine cellar, and while they don’t make wine here anymore, they have walls of it and sell it at a good price. Amparo makes its own olives and sells the most delicious jams and preserves (rightfully, in sticky jars with all the seeds in so you know it’s homemade). Keep your eyes peeled for the fresh whole figs in jars, homemade pickles, barrels of spiced olives and little plastic tubs of chocolate covered almonds and dried fruits. You’ll also find some locally-made varieties of cheese and sausages that go well with the mate you’ll drink at the 4 p.m. merienda (snack between lunch and dinner).Darwin between Gorriti and Cabrera (formerly Paraguay 4940 at Juan B. Justo, under the railroad tracks of Ferrocarril San Martín), 54-11-4116-9497. Google Maps >